Cultivating a Biodynamic Legacy
The Rossi Cairo family is a true force for good in Piedmontese winegrowing. When they acquired the La Raia estate in Gavi 2002, Giorgio Rossi Cairo and his son Piero set their aims sky-high; La Raia under the family’s care was to be not just a source of compelling wines, but a multifaceted biodynamic powerhouse, incorporating low-impact architecture based in ancient artisanal practices, growing food and tending animals to supply a gorgeous on-site restaurant and hotel, and even opening a Steiner school on the premises. La Raia quickly became a leading light of Gavi production, and we have partnered with them delightedly since 2022.
Reviving A Historic Estate in Barolo
In 2015, a remarkable opportunity presented itself: the historic Tenuta Cucco estate in Serralunga d’Alba came up for sale, with vines planted in some of the highest and easternmost stretches of the commune. Giorgio and his children relished the opportunity to apply their deeply held principles to such a hallowed piece of earth, and they acquired Cucco—including the vineyards, the 19th century cellar, and the beautiful farmhouse and manor house which they converted into a tasting room and public gathering place.
They immediately began the hard work of restoring Cucco’s vineyards to health, applying strict organic farming practices (certified since 2018) and incorporating biodynamics where possible—a different environment of application in Barolo’s monocultural and multi-owner vine-scape than in Gavi’s rural expanses. Even as Barolo’s popularity has skyrocketed in recent years, working in such a steadfastly chemical-free manner remains less common than in other similarly prestigious areas, and the Rossi Cairos’ commitment to organic farming places them in elite company.
Crafting Exceptional Wines with Minimal Intervention
The Cucco estate encompasses 13 hectares of vineyards, primarily in Serralunga d’Alba’s Cerrati cru, extending up to 430 meters altitude at the very easternmost edge of the Barolo appellation, as well as the Bricco Voghera cru, with vines planted between 350 and 400 meters of altitude along the eastern slope of Serralunga’s long crest. These ancient soils—sandier in Cerrati and stonier in Bricco Voghera—produce classic Barolo of powerful structure, intense minerality, and bold fruit, which the Rossi Cairo family and their team render with characteristic nuance and expressiveness.
Perhaps unsurprisingly, the family’s rigorous approach extends to their cellar practices. Under the guidance of the immensely talented Clara Milani—also the longtime cellarmaster at La Raia—Cucco employs only spontaneous fermentations, utilizing the traditional submerged-cap method for long, slow extractions. Aging takes place in large Stockinger botti, whose tight grain and low toast allow for minimal sulfur additions and enhance finesse without compromising intensity. This time-tested aging regimen allows the estate’s immensely healthy fruit—always harvested by hand into small containers and transported into the winery in impeccable condition—to shine through clearly.
